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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.